Chef David Oldani finally opened his first restaurant outside Italy and it is right here in Manila at the Fort. His restaurant in Milan, Italy is a 40-seater dining area that’s awarded with one Michelin star. That restaurant has an 8-month wait list. Getting reservations at FOO’D (pronounced as fu-do) by Chef Davide Oldani here isn’t any easier, making me wish I went to their invite almost a month ago instead, but it’s good to go on your personal time too. A week or so prior reservation is good enough though vs. months of wait… and sometimes the stars align and somebody suddenly scores a last-minute booking (just a day before).
Cucina Pop is a taste of Chef Davide Oldani via a 4-course tasting menu. It’s also his concept of making premium quality food available at an accessible price. There is a 3-course menu priced at Php 800+ but I recommend that you take the 4-course at Php 1200+ and then a few upgrades. That’s what we did.
On the Table
Antipasto
Cipolla Carmellata
Caramelized Onion, 24 Months Aged Granda Padano Gelato, Grana Padano Hot Cream
Caramelized onion wrapped in a caramelized pastry with grana padano gelato and cream. It’s a fire and ice appetizer since it incorporates both hot and cold elements in a dish. The sous chef went to our table and explained the dish. It had to be eaten with everything combined in one bite.
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Primo
Cacio E Pepe
Spaghetti, Horseradish, Lemon, Pecorino Romano, Freshly Cracked Black Pepper
Very light pasta dish that I can only describe as a taste of summer. It was a good primer before my choice of entrée was served. Reminds me of Mamou’s Lorenzo’s Pasta without the truffle essence.
Pea Soup
(The other option for your primo)
Secondo
Aggiornamento (Upgrades)
The main that’s included in the 4-course meal is Iberico Pork Ribs but you can upgrade it to other dishes. There are options for chicken (+ P250), Chilean seabass (+ P250) and veal (+ 300). My entrée was the Beef All Olio (+ Php 480) which is Snake River Farms Wagyu Beef Cheek, Bordelaise, Asparagus, Trout Caviar.
The tender, yielding Wagyu beef cheek engages you quickly just after the first bite. There is an intensity about the sauce that draws you in… but then disappears. I thought it’d taste heavy-handed but it’s strong yet velvety, rides on distinctive notes of red wine and shallots.
Dolce
Lemon Curd
Dehydrated Meringue, Cacao Crumble, Curry Almonds, Lettuce Gelato
The precision and progression of the degustation was excellent and I thought dessert will be a quieter retreat, but it was still quite a revelation. It’s almost making me think it’s their strongest suit. Visually, it was very arresting. To me it felt like it was the sun (lemon meringue) shining down on a field (cacao crumble and lettuce gelato). Visual execution was stunning but even how that interpretation translates to taste was incredibly remarkable.
The other dessert option, Chocolate Mousse. This wasn’t my order but it was also divine.
For first date ideas, this can be a good place since the dishes can be conversation starters and surely dessert will leave a good lasting impression on your date.
Foo’D by Chef Davide Oldani
G/F Shangri-La at the Fort,
30th Street Cor. 5th Avenue, Fort Bonifacio, Taguig
(63 2) 950 8492
Foo’D by Chef Davide Oldani Flickr Set
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